veblen_goods
11
Dials
I've seen a few different methods for fitting dials to movements.
As stated, dial feet are the typical approach; usually stabilized and anchored by a locking screw or sliding clip. I've seen clip on dials that have a ring along the outer edge that allows a dial to be friction fit to the edge of the movement (early Rolex 1803 Day-Dates have a dial like this). I've also seen some dials that have holes on the outer edge where they are held to the movement using screws. On some Patek ref 1463, you can actually see these dial screws visible along the edge where the dial meets the rehaut.
For the late 30s/40s/early 50s Patek dials, many were made using an enameling technique called champlevé. Essentially, the dial 'print' as you see it is not actually print at all. Rather the font/minute chapter/etc was engraved out of the dial, filled and fired. The dial surface is then polished down and finished but the hard enamel is retained. If you see some of the Patek dials from this era, you will notice that the dial 'printing' appears raised; that is the effect of the champlevé process (I learned this from the great, knowledgeable people here on Puristspro as a matter of fact).
As for the 'wrinkling' that you pointed out; depending on the reference, the effect may be a result of dial damage from removing bezels, uncasing, etc. combined with the possible fragile nature of a dial that may have been exposed to the elements (remember, a lot of these early vintage cases were not waterproof). In fact, I believe that was the whole reasoning behind the champlevé dials... To be able to endure some of those conditions a little better than a pad printed dial could...
Hope this helps...
Dial Questions for Team WatchTech
A very quick reply, or better: the possible start for many replies ....
Very varied
Dials
